Gracias Malibu

After 2 days of hitting every stoplight and traffic jam in SoCal, my plan came together and I surfed Malibu this afternoon with a mellow crowd. There were some knee to gut high peelers and I managed to snag a couple. Even got one wave where nobody snaked me until half way along the wave. It was good to get out of the van and clear the head. Too many shitty drivers out there. Me included. Traffic, stoplights, minor accidents, and dead birds. But it's AWESOME that every surf shop except the FROGHOUSE, still employs young hotts to work their counters. it puts a smile on my face and lifts the spirits, so to speak. That's the one good thing about hitting 57 shops in 2 days. It was also really cool to run into Glilda out in the water. Right as i walked up, I saw her cruizin down a good, little wave. It was fun chatting it up. A couple hours of shreddin and I was back on the road, driving below the limit, letting people cut me off, and totally cool with it. Muy tanquillo, as our Mexican brothas would say. Can't wait to see what this weekend brings.

Not today...