After a coffee and a duke, I cruized down to my favorite little beach on saturday to kill some time before knocking out the weekend to-do list. Good thing I always have a couple boards in the Lezmobile, cuz it was pumpin. The sand was groomed to perfection from few weeks of flatness, and the crowd was thin. About 4 dudes out when I first arrived. I sat in a shit ton of gut-chest high pockets, with the occasional bigger sets. Lots of head high goodness and everything in between. Although this particular wave isn't known for being fast, it was haulin some serious ass, it was screamin. Late drops and haul ass was all I wanted to do. Not sure how many waves I picked off, but I'm certain that I didn't make more than a single turn on any wave. I'm still stuck in the joy of locking into a pocket and staying there. Draggin my hand and mini-pumping along. I mostly rode the last board I shapped. It's like my women...fat, short and stubby with a turned up nose...something like 6'3" x 22ish x 2&3/4. It's got a bit of nose rocker, but I didn't do a good job of thinning out the rails or tail, so it doesn't like to get on rail much. It and I really likes late takeoffs, deeper the better. As the day wore on, the crowd showed up. Got burned repeatedly by one kid and his dad so I had to start burning in retaliation. Gotcha bitch! Much of the same on Sunday, just more peeps and less burning. Then the Lakers game started and the lineup was empty. Great way to end a sunday. The best news is that all the waves kept me out of spandex and off the bike for an entire weekend. Good times.
good on ya chief, nice re-pour.
ReplyDeletegot 3 waves of note in the jetty churn at da port. most of pnw was in sunshine hangover mode; the meth heads were only ones out in the cool gray sunday. beach taxed some "kooks" who left thier grocery bag of barley-pops, m&m's, trail mix, jerky, and nalgene bottle for the gulls and crows to pick through... thnx "bro", the cold one hit the spot after turtle rolling the RA Funboard through the yetty refraction + 5-6ftW@10secnds.
happy mundae.
Did you go Mortys Lot Bybee? I miss sitting around the fire at Mortys lot drinking beers until I head bob. Maybe some bill Bixby to
ReplyDeleteMe too, Lonis. Nothing like urban camping between two homes, getting wasted around a fire, chuffin heaters, and falling down. Then getting up and slashin waves.
ReplyDeleteThose days might be over now. Morty is a responsible father now.
ReplyDeleteBybee, please confirm?
still livin' the wport dream at chateu de mortEH me. Gonzales... blue-flames via 20w50, and busch light crushed can count has dropped, but there's still some guud burnin' and tellin' lies goin on at da spot. crew has mos def thinned however, PDog "the dude" and I have been holdin it down weekend warrior style on the regular however, with an occasional Cart-Air and ex-Sweet-Life_Enterprises-goneTireSalesman sitings. the M-FAM is in effect and still kills clams and ling-code, don't despair!
ReplyDeleteI wonder if Morty Jr is already gummin some Top Ramen filler. The family that eats Ramen together stays together, ya know.
ReplyDeletewho says those days have to be over when you reach father hood horje? SOunds like you need a lenno garage night to snap out of it. lol
ReplyDeleteI agree with everything on the above jeffe, although the heaters are out for me, it will be a year in August heaterless, trying to keep it that way. After about 5 jack and cokes it gets tough, but I get through it
ReplyDelete