Sunday, October 23, 2011
Can't believe that fall has us by the balls and we'll be shredding in less than a month. The leaves are falling and I've had to scrape my car windows a couple times. I'm still here and it looks like I'll be spending another winter living the dream. Working nights and playing all day/every day. So before the pass closes, I drove over Trail Creek to check out my bro's ranch up in Copper Basin.
Passed by some prime fishin.
And made it t his place. There's a series of tiny little cabins, sheep wagons, and a stoney yurt on the compound. This one's from some creeper named Russian John's that's about 200 square feet and 100 years old. It was salvaged 50 miles away and rebuilt here.
"hey fucker, did you see that?"
Up the valley in the back 40.
Jesus Christ it's gorgeous everywhere around here.
And then back home down the pass and along Trail Creek.
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
The last couple days I was in Santa Barbara, a really good NW swell came through and lit up some places. It was 90 degrees and pumpin waves that completely surfed me out. Rincon was on fire. After surfing it all day then getting another mellow second surf up the road, I decided to cruise back and check the evening sesh out. Dudes were getting tubes all the way though the cove along a great little sandbar. Serious rippin going down.
Wednesday, October 12, 2011
Monday, October 10, 2011
Another morning of slashing mellow Rincon. Tide was still a bit high when I arrived. But with a major tide swing right around the full moon action, I decided to suit up and be the first to paddle out before the rapidly retreating tide. Figured I'd pick off a few randoms before the rest of the a-holes appear. I brought along my waterproof camera for the first time ever and fucked around with it. Got a couple fun peelers before a couple of chicks came out and stole my thunder. They were cool and I didn't HAVE to yell or paddle aggressively around them. They had a camera, too, so hopefully we can all sit around enjoy some pics of The Brown Recluse very soon since we exchanged emails. I got a shit ton of waves before a bunch of kids and wave hogs came out. I couldn't have asked for more today. And with swell starting to fill in over the next few days, I should be able to get my wiggle-n-squat going till the end of this vacation. Then it's back to being a jonzin Idaho surfer serving meat and grog.
Sunday, October 9, 2011
Spied this in the parking lot at Rincon today. Not sure why somebody would take the time and energy to build and place this sticker on their truck. I would assume they are some great big fat person. Probably happy about being a fatso. Whatever. But the moral of the story is just don't be the slowest creature when hungry fucking predators are around. I GET IT!
Saturday, October 8, 2011
So I'm spending a couple weeks down here in Santa Barbara on some sort of a "working vacation". The main goal is to rustle up a jobby job so I can eventually move back here asap. We're making great progress despite massive headwinds. I've spent a year living dangerously in Dildo Valley, Idaho and now it's time for more stoney noserides. A while back in Sun Valley, I was talking to my buddies parents (who I barely know) and mentioned that I'll be in SB for the first couple weeks of October. They live here and say "hey, maybe you can stay at our house and look after it". I say "hells yes". I'm thinking all along that it beats the crap outta sleeping on friend's couches or in my car. Then they remember to tell me that I'll be watching their 13 year old son, too. Oh, and the dogs. "Sure, why not? The more the merrier" I say. And here I sit...on a saturday night in the big city....after hanging out at the beach surfing with 13 year old boys all day...slothing with the dogs on the couch.... with a gut full of In-N-Out Double Double.
When I arrived in town last week, I met up with the Mrs and she gave me the walk though the estate and rundown of responsibilities. Super cool people who really don't know me except that I'm their older son's surf buddy who he met in a remote dirt town in Mexico and I spent a day shredding last winter with the old man. As we're cruising around the house she laughs and says "I hope you're not some pedophile".
Saturday, October 1, 2011
I spent a wet, rainy September 26th at the Oregon Coast with my brother and shoveled lots of deep fried seefood in the piehole. I haven't seen that much rain in a long time and it was great. It was really coming down, and windy. Not much to do outdoors. Other, weaker tourists were scared away by the storm. Not us. We were there on a family style mission and couldn't reschedule. It woulda been a perfect storm for heavy boozing if only I still liked to get wasted. It was a really cool couple of days regardless.