Friday, April 20, 2012

Almost here

On my day and a half in Santa Barbara, I pretty much ran into everybody I know in that town. Picked up my board from Lovelace. Hung out with Cinda. Had coffee with Peter. Surfed with Val. And saw Albers, Gilda, Trevor, and Leo chillin at Rincon. Now I'm just sitting in the Sheraton Bandar Lampung waiting for my ride to Paradise Surf Camp just south of Krui beach in Sumatra. And sweating my balls off.

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Bar Sluts

A couple days ago I was haulin balls from Idaho to Santa Barbara during my 10-year-mid-life-crisis. I had forgetten that Nevada is loaded with incerdible graffiti. It was everywhere. Except I was making good time and couldn't stop. I just drove past and smiled. But just outside Tonopah International Airport I was looking for somewhere to drain the vein when I saw Bar Sluts. I pulled over...pissed all over it and myself...snapped a coulpe picks...chuckled...then burned gravel on my way back onto HWY Fuck-If-I-Know-The-Number. Gotta get back to CA and yell at some fuckers at Rincon.

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

stoke level on the rise

Here's basically what I'm packing for 5 weeks of tropical surf. 3 boards shorts (always a dry one somewhere), 2 tees(might cut back to 1), 2 tanks, 2 long sleeve shirts (anti mosquito), rashguard, 2 shorts, 2 undies (not needed most of the time), camera gear, passport, pen and paper for recording life, 3-4 long winded books to read, Indonesian phrase book, $15.7 million Rupiah, crappy notebook computer to connect to The Grid once in a while, Starbucks Via (just in case), first aid kit, Malaria pills, iPod and speakers, chargers and random wires for electronics along with an Indo adapter, sunglasses, and a tie-down strap. I'm traveling somewhat light, but will still be comfortable once I get there. Still need to pick up the last few things in California. Not included but waiting for me in Santa Barbara is wax, reef booties, a 5'11" Rusty Dwart, and a Lovelace Throughull.

Monday, April 2, 2012

Carpe diem

In 1998 I received a Zimmer Epoch artificial left hip. That was flat out, a terrible few months of recovery that was miserable, painful, and just plain shitty. Then, a couple months back I was planning a trip and thinking about my future bucket list or surf and shred trips. It got me to thinking I had an added sense of urgency because at some point I'll need a revision of my fake hip...hopefully after at least 20 years. So I have plenty of time to pack it all in. I said something along the lines of "I'm always on the road, in a hurry to cram in all my life adventures, live it up and do everything I can before I'm unable".

Last friday I went to the doc for a checkup on my hip. I've been in mellow pain for a few months, but I always just power through it, hit the weightroom, and stretch the fuck out of it to loosen it up and strengthen things. This was different, though. I had weird popping. I noticed I was walking weird and my left left was at least an inch shorter. It felt like my hip socket had shifted up a couple inches. Plus it was time to quit ignoring warning signs after the 10,000th person says, "dude, are you limping?". No I'm not limping, fuckface. Dr Judd says otherwise. My socket has worn out and there's at least and inch gap inside there. (Hahah, I said "inch gap") My piece of shit body has decided to crap out on me before I could make it to 42. After only 14 years with my Zimmer, I need a big ol surgery to redo my fake hip. It shoulda lasted 20 years. Needless to say, this here is a bit of a gamechanger. I can't keep having so many fucking injuries that require an orthopod to fix. I just can't keep recovering. I have to rethink my priorities.

In 2 weeks, I'm still going to Sumatra for a few weeks and gonna surf my face off. Then I race back to the operating table on May 29. The rest of Spring and Early summer will be shitty. some'll get better. And eventually, I'll be cracking out some kicks like "Superfoot" Wallace.

Sunday, April 1, 2012


"Fuck" is an English word that is considered vulgar. In its most literal meaning, it refers to the act of sexual intercourse. By extension it may be used to negatively characterize anything that can be dismissed, disdained, defiled, or destroyed and may also be used as an intensive.
"Fuck" can often be used as a verb, adverb, adjective, imperative, interjection, and noun. It has various metaphorical meanings. To be "fucked" can mean to be cheated (e.g., "I got fucked by a scam artist"), or to be broken or ruined (e.g., "my computer is fucked") as well as to be sexually penetrated. As a noun, "a fuck" or "a fucker" may describe a contemptible person. "A fuck" may mean an act of copulation. The word can be used as an interjection, and its participle is sometimes used as a strong (not necessarily negative) emphatic. The verb to fuck may be used transitively or intransitively, and it appears in compounds, including fuck off, fuck you, fuck up, and fuck with. In less explicit usages (but still regarded as vulgar), fuck or fuck with can mean to mess around, or to deal with unfairly or harshly. In a phrase such as "don't give a fuck", the word is the equivalent of "damn", in the sense of something having little value. In "what the fuck?!", it serves merely as an intensive. If something is very abnormal or annoying, "this is fucked up!" may be used.