On my day and a half in Santa Barbara, I pretty much ran into everybody I know in that town. Picked up my board from Lovelace. Hung out with Cinda. Had coffee with Peter. Surfed with Val. And saw Albers, Gilda, Trevor, and Leo chillin at Rincon. Now I'm just sitting in the Sheraton Bandar Lampung waiting for my ride to Paradise Surf Camp just south of Krui beach in Sumatra. And sweating my balls off.
in one paragraph you took me to California and around the world.
ReplyDeletesprittysiccbro