Monday, October 10, 2011
Another morning of slashing mellow Rincon. Tide was still a bit high when I arrived. But with a major tide swing right around the full moon action, I decided to suit up and be the first to paddle out before the rapidly retreating tide. Figured I'd pick off a few randoms before the rest of the a-holes appear. I brought along my waterproof camera for the first time ever and fucked around with it. Got a couple fun peelers before a couple of chicks came out and stole my thunder. They were cool and I didn't HAVE to yell or paddle aggressively around them. They had a camera, too, so hopefully we can all sit around enjoy some pics of The Brown Recluse very soon since we exchanged emails. I got a shit ton of waves before a bunch of kids and wave hogs came out. I couldn't have asked for more today. And with swell starting to fill in over the next few days, I should be able to get my wiggle-n-squat going till the end of this vacation. Then it's back to being a jonzin Idaho surfer serving meat and grog.