Saturday, February 21, 2009

Rad fucken day

When I woke up this morning still a little foggy from last night's wine, I had no idea the day would be so rad. Things just fell into place all day long and it was fun as shit. I didn't wanna dick around with the a-holes at Rincon, so I started with a surf at Mira Mar. Got there around mid tide and spent 3 hours getting stoney mellow longboard rides, mostly in the gut high range with a few bigger sets. Not a drop of wind, so it was ultra glassy. The bottom started to drop out on the inside, so it got speedy. Lots of rocks showing and taking some risks making some sections were required. Squat low and hang on. It was all good. Not many peeps, so I got my fill and then spent a couple hours taking a nap and running errands. I could've called it a day and been satisfied right then and there. But nope, not today. I pulled my lazy ass off the couch, grabbed the single fin, and went for an afternoon sesh at Rincon. When I got to the parking lot is was curiously empty. I changed and raced down the trail to see a bunch of people just hangin out on the beach watching the scene. Not many surfers in the water. I jumped in just below the rivermouth and paddled out into an oncoming set that was about shoulder high. Dan Malloy was tucked into a sick ass barrel right in front of me.....riding an alaia. WHAAAAAAATTT? Now, I don't get star struck by people, especially if they're dudes. But I really dig his style and his life in general. He and his brothers "get" life and what it's all about. For the next couple hours, we're trading off waves and shooting the shit. Every once in a while I look down the wave as I'm paddling back out and see him tucked under the lip or locked into something good. He's absolutely killin it on a finless chunk of plywood. Then I move down the point and find a nice peak with nobody around. I manage to locate 2009's barrel #'s 3,4,5, and 6. I sat in a honey hole all by myself was pickin off the waves. One wave in particular, I got a double barrel and was setting up for another awesome section when I look ahead and see Kelly Slater pulling of my wave. I remember thinking to myself "hey, there's the World Champ, what's he doing". I immediately spazz, flail, and fall over, wasting possibly the best wave of my winter. I think I got star struck, even though we've met a couple times....and he's a dude. The guy nails every supermodel and is the soon to be 10-time world champ for christ sake. I said hi and went back to my little spot laughing the whole way. I was surfing good and had some really great waves. Lots of shoulder to head high waves and glassy all day. Good vibes in the water to top it all off. Damm right it was a good day.

I love this pic of Dan Malloy taken by Kyle Lightner last month...


  1. Things of beauty & day's to remember. Nice work heffe! Redemption for last weekend's debauchery. Man... snowone's gonna be fat, ultra-white, and xtra kooky in Mex. Hope we can still be friends.

    Love the stories, keep them comin' eh

  2. pretty sure my favorite part about this post, is the fact that you swear like a sailor- then abbreviate assholes with 'a-holes'.

    Jeff, you sir, are a gem.

    a big, fat, gay, gem :)

  3. Thanks Clint. Hope you don't mind the pic fag. Whoa, as I'm writing this, my iPod just shuffled to He's Gone by the Dead. Fucken stoney, bro.