Tuesday, September 25, 2012
Santa Cruizin
Fuck this shit...I'm going surfing. This weekend I'm loading up my camper and heading over to Santa Cruz to get some waves and camp under some big trees. I have no clue if I can even surf. My squat is pathetic, so it might not work so good. Maybe more of a couple days of kneeboarding, but at least I'll be floating. Floating and chumming in cold, shark waters. I'm barely able to touch my knees these days so I'll need to find a way to make it work. It'll be the 4 month birthday of me writing large checks to my orthopedic surgeon. And it will be the 4 month plus 1 week anniversary of my last surf. I can't think of a better way to celebrate.
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how'd it go?
ReplyDeleteDone and DONE! Just got back home. pretty easy drive. knee rode a couple, then let a macker set wave go past fearing I couldn't handle it, then took the next macker set wave and stood up like a champ. i don't know why i could stand up while in the water but when I made it back to shore I could barely walk.
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