Saturday, February 13, 2010

Clean the lens

Kick ass day, mang. Kick. Ass. Day. Surfed El Rancho for a brief go out. I don't know why, but it sucked for me. I got a few overhead waves and surfed okay, but I just wasn't feelin it. I never seemed to be in a good groove. I counted 7 boats, so the lineup was littered with the common folk. Most of those boaters who put in the effort are good surfers, too. So it wasn't filled with your usual old man, longboarders that miss all their waves. There was some skill out there. Plus it was well overhead, pushing double. I shoulda been stoked and counted my good fortune, but not really. I just couldn't shake it. So we caught our necessary limit to make it acceptable then bailed. I planned to get back in time to surf somewhere in town and at least make the day not totally frustrating. Then my buddy said let's go surf a point north of Carpinteria. He said his friend has a house on the point and he knows the gate code. That way it wouldn't take a mid sized hike through a pitch black drainage ditch to get there. Once again, Country Club Surfing at it's finest. It took a while for dude to remember code since his friend changes the code on the weekends to keep his riff raff free loading surfer friends away. But HOLY FUCK it was well worth it. My day was salvaged by gut to shoulder high screamers. Me and basically 1 other dude trading pockets, barrels, and coverups on every wave reeling down the sand point. Some beatings were taken. The ocean still fills my forehead 3 hours later. Our own little Sandspit. Good times.

And I know how to live on the edge, god dammit. Here's a not so stealth quick peek of a spot earlier today that nobody's allowed to vid.


  1. faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaack.
    that looks rad.

  2. Nigel almost lost his mind in the tunnel one time. The batteries went out and he kept walking into the walls screaming that he was going straight. I love that story. Glad you scored!