Monday, June 7, 2010
wind swell surprise
After a coffee and a duke, I cruized down to my favorite little beach on saturday to kill some time before knocking out the weekend to-do list. Good thing I always have a couple boards in the Lezmobile, cuz it was pumpin. The sand was groomed to perfection from few weeks of flatness, and the crowd was thin. About 4 dudes out when I first arrived. I sat in a shit ton of gut-chest high pockets, with the occasional bigger sets. Lots of head high goodness and everything in between. Although this particular wave isn't known for being fast, it was haulin some serious ass, it was screamin. Late drops and haul ass was all I wanted to do. Not sure how many waves I picked off, but I'm certain that I didn't make more than a single turn on any wave. I'm still stuck in the joy of locking into a pocket and staying there. Draggin my hand and mini-pumping along. I mostly rode the last board I shapped. It's like my women...fat, short and stubby with a turned up nose...something like 6'3" x 22ish x 2&3/4. It's got a bit of nose rocker, but I didn't do a good job of thinning out the rails or tail, so it doesn't like to get on rail much. It and I really likes late takeoffs, deeper the better. As the day wore on, the crowd showed up. Got burned repeatedly by one kid and his dad so I had to start burning in retaliation. Gotcha bitch! Much of the same on Sunday, just more peeps and less burning. Then the Lakers game started and the lineup was empty. Great way to end a sunday. The best news is that all the waves kept me out of spandex and off the bike for an entire weekend. Good times.