Sunday, January 4, 2009
End of a good run
The Queen from jeff wirtanen on Vimeo.
What an awesome day today. It was an absolutely beautiful California winter day filled with fun surf. I timed my morning session at El Rincon perfect. There weren't many dickheads in the water and the wave was working just fine. Actually it was peeling right long with a good amount of gusto for the size. Got tons of waves that were in the gut to chest high range. The tide was perfect to make the inside sandbar thing start working, too. My only move right now is the get-low-hand-drag-squat. It was the right move for that throwing little inside section. Glorious waves. Then the crowd showed up in all it's lameness. Snaking, back paddling, and generally weak manueverings started to rear their ugly heads. So it was time for me to move on down the road to Hobson's.
I've driven past this place a million times but I don't think I've ever surfed it. Maybe once, when I spent the night in the campground with the RV (Rapist's Vehicle, AKA Little Debbie, AKA The Brown Recluse). Regardless, it may be my new least favorite break. Normally I'd say Mondos, but since I will probably never surf there again, I don't really count it. Hobson's was big, mushy, gutless, and almost non-existent until my last reeling right hand wave. That last wave was kind of incredi. Big drop with a squatting hand drag along a long throwing face into a lip smacking cutback to a wave ending floater nearly into the sand. Maybe I like Hobson's afterall.
On the way back home I stopped back at Rincon and tried to squeeze in a 3rd session before lunch. No such luck. The waves were a lot smaller. They shoulda been there 5 hours earlier. So I shot a couple vid clips and linked them together.
Party's over. Tomorrow it's back to the desk job. Time to get ready for Surf Expo. Florida, bitches.