Saturday, September 19, 2009
My new thing is sitting on the beach and not surfing. Just spacing out and watching awesome waves. it's just fucking great. Try it some time. Fuck you Rincon. Yesterday I stopped by Rincon after work and it was pumpin. Head high at least and the rivermouth was firing. Lots of good waves just beggin to get shredded. Not many quality surfers out there except for the barrel killer and future WCT'r Conner Coffin. He was out there destroying it.
So since I'm hating life and can't do shit, I decided to shape another board today. The Worlds Greatest Board #3 has been shaped and needs to get glassed. It's a 6'4" x 21.5 x probably 2.75. The diamond tail is wide as fuck...9.5. I tried to give it a single concave in the middle to a doubleish concave over the back feet. I picked up the blank from Fiberglass Hawaii last week. I'm finding that I really like making a mess of foam. The idea was a widowmaker. Where you have a bigger center fin with 2 small side bitter fins positioned along side it. Like a 2+1. I've been reading about these for a while now and never seen anybody riding one. Everything I've ready is that they haul ass like a thruster but carve like a single fin. I like carving. They say these things make incredible bottom turns. Especially when you really crank it on rail and would normally slide out. The side bitters give it that extra grip. I may try glassing this bitch. But I'll probably go the easy way and have that dude down in Ventura knock it out for me. It would be rad to get to surf this thing if my knee ever gets better.