Lots of water time this weekend. It began early saturday with some really fun, crowded surf at Rincon. Then it was time to move up the road a bit to escape and get in some wrongboarding. Here's a rare pic of my stock run these days. Drop...grab rail/turn board...squat low...hang on till the bitter end. Just trying to tuck into the pocket and slide my hand along the lip as it breaks. Wave after wave, that's all I did. I can't stop it. I might not have made even one bottom turn. But it's so much fucking fun.
beauty. but hey, maybe the laok of motion/movement in your "wrongboarding" is what allows these mrsa/staph bugs to settle in... maybe get your shuffle/cross step on, wiggle around a little bit, show that log who's boss... you're not *that* old Capt'n Heffe, don't lock in for crazy old man strolls trough the same path in the park day after day quite yet. use your anger, those shiny little waves with sparkle you're reaching to grasp/gleam will only lull you into the delirium of senility.
ReplyDelete(jealous, i'd be doing the same) stuck up in the soggy pnw with all the pow fiends... something like 42 days of rain.
You have slalom skiing style. Get some poles dude.
ReplyDeleteSorry bud, but your nose seems to be blocking and clouding your visual perception. Left foot is clearly glued to the stringer in the ready position, while right foot is slightly right of center, leaning into the wave, trimming away. Shoulders squared to duck into and peek inside deeeeeep barreling waves.
ReplyDeletepsia level 3
ReplyDeletePSIA LEVEL 4 , bitch, extra discount on the proform and everything
ReplyDelete