Monday, November 30, 2009


Wow, another weekend of highs and lows. Let's start with Turkey Day. A friend from Idaho was in town who happens to have access to The Hollister Ranch. So we cruised up there late morning after checking the buoys and forecast. Everything was pointing to waist high at best, so I grabbed the 9'4" Weber and the big 7'0" Christenson single fin. Wrong! After our first sight of Razor Blades reeling along at head and half and I knew I picked the wrong boards. We surfed Drakes at a foot over head to nearly double overhead. Big as fuck with sets that looked like folded over football fields that lined up for 200+ yards. Long drops leading to big, crankin bottom turns lead to high speed haulin of ass. It was awesome to be able to fully lay into it and kind be on my game. Then I came home to Thanksgiving ribs and jumbalya with the rommates. Good day.

Friday was okay. Surfed Sharks Cove and Mira Mar, but it was just okay.

Saturday began promising. Watched some questionable Mira Mar for about an hour, but didn't get wet. I figured I'd go somewhere else to grab some surf and come back for an afternoon, low tide sesh. So I cruised down to the harbor. It was lookin fun with occasional great sets pumpin through. Tubes everywhere. Tubes an pockets that leisurely reeled along the sandbar. Curren was out there killin it on a boogey board. I wasn't really feelin it, but I decided to jump in anyway and force myself. Wrong again. Second wave I went for was about 2 feet at best. I went over the bars faster than you can say "fucking kook" and drilled my neck into sand covered by about 2" of water. As I'm tumbling across the sand I realized I've still got feeling in my toes and fingers so all is well. A little groggy I surfed for another hour and caught a few fun little pockets but no barrels. My neck is fucked. REALLY fucked. I went back to Mira Mar to see what was happening. It was overhead, offshore, and looked like perfect Rincon rivermouth. Since my neck was jacked, I couldn't dominate the lineup with my devestating backhand attack. I fucking suck.

Then sunday, I moved out of my house and I'm officially homeless. All my shit is in my buddy's barn and I'm living in an Airstream plugged into an outlet behind some bushes on the same property. Stealth mode cuz the tennants in the main house wouldn't be stoked that there's squatters on the property that they pay a fuckload for. Hopefully they don't notice my car. Last night I slept like a champ...nearly 11 hours.

No pics cuz I don't know which box my A/V cables are in. But here's some vid of the harbor on an epic day...

1 comment: