Sunday, March 29, 2009

All timer

Yesterday was so fun at a little point break in northern Ventura County named Rncon. Lots and lots of waves for me cuz the crowds were really thin and the talent level wasn't high. Not really sure what the deal was, why was nobody there. The morning sesh was mainly gut to chest high and fun. With my back still not 100% and I don't really want to twist much, all I do is drop in and get lowwww. I'll save the major slashing for MEx in 2 weeks. Right now I'm really diggin trimming into the pocket and just sitting there. No turns just trim away. I got a ton of those. I surfed a good couple hours then ate, bronzed, and went to gym. After getting big and strong, I went directly back to Rincon. It was near flawless shoulder high and maybe 10 dudes out. I got a shit-ton of great waves. Enough to claim that I'm a little surfed out after the last couple weeks. I don't remember the last time I said that. In the parking lot, there was a loud barking dog stuck in a van who was probably dying from the heat. It was 80 degrees outside. i was exhausted, but I went over to see if I could help out the little feller. What I found was this vicious, frothing, angry pitbull protecting his turf and he woulda ripped my guts out if only he had opposable thumbs. So I grabbed the camera and pissed him off even more. Fuck you and your Asstro Van, guy.

1 comment:

  1. I was born in Ventura and have an Astro van.

    Not a pitbull dude though.

    just thought I'd share.