Sunday, March 15, 2009
Malibu gives me a migraine
Fucken migraines can suck my balls. I ain't talkin headaches, I'm talkin full blown aura seeing, numb face. scalp, and arms, and dizzyness. As if fighting the crowd at Malibu on the first south swell of the season isn't bad enough, I get one of these stupid migraines. I haven't had one for years. Why today? I had already gotten a decent mini sesh filled with kelp at the Break Formerly Known as Secos. Good but by no means quality for a sunday. So I cruized a little farther south to the Point. As I walk up I notice Albers killin it on one of Poinlt Concept's futuristic superhulls that was finished and glassed yesterday. The crowd was thick, but not super bad. I sat and chiled for a while and was in a stoney mood for some reason. All of a sudden that piece of shit migraine attacked me as I was talkin to Albers. I get blind spots, and my arm starts and scalp goes numb and I fell like I need to crap or throw up. I can't figure out which one would make me feel better, so I retire to the Super Van for an out-of-the-sun slothing. after about an hour, I don't feel much better, but since I drove this far and the waves are good, I sack up and grab the longboard for my second sesh. It was cool running into Ryan Lovelace. Apparently Lightgnar and some other SB dudes were around earlier. It woulda been much cooler if all the bros were there surfing and not the masses, but whatever. I finally caught a couple after pulling off hundreds. Malibu is just amazing in every way...the good, bad, duechy, coolness, great beach boobies, Lou Ferigno looking Sarlo beating the shit out waves, Farvebro, stupid drop ins, yelling, and all the good ripping. It's all there. Right now, I still feel like crap, but at least some waves, some yelling at old dudes, and some laughing takes the edge off a little. At least I used 2 westuits today and one of them was the 3/2. Spring has sprung and summer is near.