Monday, December 21, 2009
Not a whole helluva lot going on around Recluse Headquarters. Just your normal levels of rage and anger followed by extreme mellowness and joy. Surfed Rincon all fucking weekend and had a great time. For the most part I was able to surf the rivermouth all by myself. Everybody was up top or in the cove. Not sure why, but it was great. Lots of gay-ass waves in the waist to shoulder high range. A few topped out at around head high. And super clean. Eventually some a-holes took notice and tried to steal my thunda. I kinda burned some backpaddling, stink-bugging, Pit Crew dork. I let him get all his yelling out of his system and laughed in his face with barely saying a word. Then his buddy burned me. Touchee, my friend. Last friday, we had our Company Christmas party. Didn't really feel like going, but I felt I oooowed it to them. So I sat quietly, spaced out, stuffed my face, and watched the clock till an acceptable time to bail. Then I made my break and never looked back. We might have a solid week of surf coming through, so I've pulled the plug on driving to Sun Valley, Idaho. It would be rad to see all my olf friends up there, but they'd don't have squat for snow. Instead, I'm staying in Santa Barbara and hope to surf myself out over the next couple weeks while on vacation. Happy surfboarding!