Sunday, January 10, 2010
I am NOT kidding when I say that we are getting some solid fucking surf around deez parts. Reports have flooded the Brown Recluse Home Office that there's gapping, uncrowded, board snappin barrels up north and gigantic 12-15 foot faces everywhere down south. Huh. I didn't surf any of that shit, but man it's been a kick ass weekend what I did. I'm a broken down lazy fuck who doesn't feel like messing with crowds, so I've been surfing my secret spot alot. This spot is so top secret, you can grab a Starbucks and drive right up to it for a little chekalooka from your driver's seat. From friday to today, I've spent almost every second of daylight surfing there. It's been everywhere front waist high reefy drainers to head high screamers. My surifn's been hit or miss, but it's been so fun. Crowds have ranged from non-factor to GO FUCK YOURSELF, DICKNOSE. So here is sit, completely surfed out, random aches and pains, hole in my knee, fixin to head to stupid Orlando in a couple days, and I'm totally cool with that. All right, all right, all right.