Friday, January 1, 2010

New Decade Surf

Tough to tell, but it's probally chest high

Far right is the 1969 Yater

Waveset Fin System

Started off the new year with a kick ass slashing sesh up at Middle Peak on the Ranch. Wave height ranged from gut to shoulder high with steady offshore winds standing up the waves making for nice pockets of love. Actually, there wasn't much slashing cuz I was riding that weird Yater v-bottomish thing from 1969. That board is one year old older than me and has slightly less dings and water damage. It's a funky bitch to ride. I find it more fun for me to go backside (right) after pivoting on the waveset fin while dropping in. Then just trimming away till the bitter end. One hand skimming along gayly. I got to talking to Yvon Chouinard who was out there with us, too. I put him in the old Brown Recluse Mind Exploson of Death. He won't know what hits him when I drop off my resume real soon. He's one of the dudes that I admire most and I seem to be on a collision course with Patagonia. His ability to create an incredible brand and not lose his soul or sense of adventure is fucking awesome. He was rippin, and if I do my math correctly, he's 71.


  1. Happy New Year, my bionic comrade! I think, as I said in a comment on my blog, 2010 will be a good year for all of us. It's time for you to move on (work-wise) to bigger and better things. It's time for me to simply get a job.

    I like your resolution about hitting the gym often. I lift at least twice a week. If I don't, age will catch up with me. I'm not ready to be caught . . . not quite yet.

  2. good post. BRMED, nice. Make it so #!... you are number one (repeat this in your mind, in your mother's voice if you prefer). Go team twenty-ten.