Thursday, May 5, 2011
via Cruz Del Sur
At this time tomorrow I should be arriving up north in a little fishing city called Pacasmayo. I'm taking an overnight bus where the seats fold down like giant Lazy Boys. I hear there's a waiter, booze, and movies to kill the time. Plus I've got my buddy, Ambien along for the ride. We board the bus in Lima at 8pm and roll into town at around 8am. I've met a few random surfers around here who all seem to be stoked on it's wave. It sounds like it's super consistent and really fun from gut to over-head high. Although, in this country, the average "head high" day would be 5'6". The wave is supposed to be ridiculously long, too. But for now, I'm sitting in a Starfucks across from this giant park, old ornate church, and fancy government building of some kind. It's the first time in a very long time that I haven't jonzed for surf or shred every second of the day. Usually it's an overwhelming urge at all times. But right now, for the last couple days, I'm okay with just people watchin(code for pervin) and hanging out. Maybe it's cuz I know I've got plenty of surf coming soon. Maybe I'm just injured enough. Or maybe I'm growing up.