Tuesday, May 17, 2011
In one of the surfing magazines there's always a full page photo up near the front that's called "the perfect day"...or something close to that. It's always a pic of a certain break on it's perfect day. No shit? I'm fairly cetain that today was one of those days around here. 15 wave sets of 6-9+ foot, incredible sand bottom groomed and peeling all the way along the point. It even had my favorite kind of inside section with a steep wall and mellow pocket. A couple rides today were BY FAR, the longest waves I've ever ridden. EASILY 1 km, but probably closer to 2km. There was a sketchy, underpowered, overloaded, high-flying, weed-soaked boat ride and a few extended walks back to the top, then I was done. Just sat in awe untill the bros and I were ready to call it a day. And that's all I gotta say about that.