Monday, May 16, 2011
got some ying in my yang
Oh what a difference a good day surfing can make in my head. Finally scored some really nice waves in South America and I'm feelin kinda groooooooovy. The big swell that THEY were forcasting arrived right on schedule. And the crowds rejoiced! Everybody came out of hibernation for some long peeling lefts. It started off around head-high this morning, then finished off the day with 2-3 feet overhead. Some bigger sets snuck up on us. Tomorrow is supposed to a bit bigger. MIght head down the road to "the world's longest left". The wave here peels along a point at a cool steady pace...not too fast or slow. I started sitting deeper and deeper when I began to figure out the wave a bit. Confidence was riding high when the macker set rolled through and I was just lounging around the impact zone feelin stoney on the whole scene. Took a couple on da head and my shoulder held up. But seeing as my paddle is crap, right about then I thought about hopping aboard the Zodiac cruizing the lineup to get back up to the top. Sacked up instead and just dove under a few. Got a couple more then figured it was time to leave and floated/surfed/rode foam back home. It's about 2km along the cliffs and desert to get back to town. I spent the day surfing, eating, sleeping, and surfing. No pics. But hope to break out the perv lens and snap some action over the next few days.