down day

Yesterday afternoon was my first real surf here in Peru. It was really windy, blown out and choppy with a few pulses of waves mixed in. Man, this place is as windy as I've ever seen. Wind is cool as long as I can get a powerful, late take-off. That wasn't the case here. The take off zone was shifty and I wasn't guessing right much. Inside too far then outside a bit too far. I picked off a bunch and some of those were lining up really good. I'd love to see this place with some solid swell and turn off the wind machine. Looks like a big ass swell is coming around the 16th. Sounds like it will pummel Chicama with perfect conditions, so I might move over there for a few days. Today was windy as fuck, which meant a complete down day. Bored outta my mind excpet for TV, interwebs, and walking around town. My roon is 50 meters from the beach and would get leveled if a tsunami comes. It also means it's real easy to wander over to the boardwalk to check the surf or space out. I keep seeing Datsun's everywhere. B210's and shit. I must've done the same trek around this tiny little town a dozen times today. Tomorrow I surf no matter what.

 

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