Wednesday, May 18, 2011

dropping swell

The swell fell off a bit today and we defintely scored again. Half the crowd, but that's not really an issue unless one of the boats drops off an insta-crowd. There's plenty of incredible waves that go unridden though, so that's not a problem either. The only real issue is the current. You enter waaaay up top and and after an easy float/paddle into position, a wave always seems to come immediately. If you make your sections, that wave can take you down most of the way. Then you just hop on another. And maybe another. I never took no more than 3 waves to ride the entire 2km. I realized today that you pretty much surf solo because of the currrent, long rides, and epic walk back up the lineup. I only saw the Dudes when we were hiking along the point and when we were in the taxi going home.