Wednesday, May 18, 2011

dropping swell

The swell fell off a bit today and we defintely scored again. Half the crowd, but that's not really an issue unless one of the boats drops off an insta-crowd. There's plenty of incredible waves that go unridden though, so that's not a problem either. The only real issue is the current. You enter waaaay up top and and after an easy float/paddle into position, a wave always seems to come immediately. If you make your sections, that wave can take you down most of the way. Then you just hop on another. And maybe another. I never took no more than 3 waves to ride the entire 2km. I realized today that you pretty much surf solo because of the currrent, long rides, and epic walk back up the lineup. I only saw the Dudes when we were hiking along the point and when we were in the taxi going home.


  1. epic walks on the beach eh? schweet... diggin' the ambulance chaser boat, taxi!