Friday, May 13, 2011
desert conditions all around
I am total mindless whore when it comes to surfing. There is no size too small for me to surf. My current go-to board is some self-shaped, 6'2" x 22 inch wide, fat vee tailed monster, that can pick up anything. And I mean I'll fucking ride anything. I absolutely love the feeling of standing on any wave and trimmin on down the line. Even with my 7 month layoff and gimpy left paddler I still find I can get into any bump in the water. But right now, in North Central Peru, in May of the Year of Our Lord 2011, there just ain't shit coming in. Nothing. Nada. This is the first surf trip I have ever been on that I've gotten mostly skunked. A couple times to Costa Rica, Bali, El Salvador, Nicaragua, and counteless trips to Mexico that I've never had to deal with this. My cabeza is getting softer and softer. We're getting some serious down time that's really starting to getting to all of us. "Us" is me and some classic Brazlian dudes next door. Besides a couple Kiwi's, there's not many oher surfers here that don't live here. So today, after the Brazilian bros smoked their mind, we loaded up and bused ourselves an hour and a half south to Trujillo for some shopping an sightseeing. We checked out a couple malls and didn't see even 1 hot chick. Brutal. It's like a desert out here. Eventually, after more non-eventfullness during the afternoon, we eventually found the bus terminal and made it home. Big swell coming soon, but not soon enough. Godammit man, we need some waves...STAT!